Tips and tricks of the trade!

Here is a few tips and tricks on how to assemble a Pike model. They will not help you win a contest but will make your model just slightly more flush and practical.


Battery:

For a Pike Superior or Brio the battery used is a 4x "AA"-size battery. These batteries now comes in 2300 and even 2600mah selections now (feb.05). Same size as used in your portable CD-player etc.
On the Pike Perfect we recommend 2+2 but it is possible with 4 in a square with a tight fit.

Switch:

We strongly suggest a high amp switch as the current with 6 digital servos might be above 8A in the zoom.
 

Fuse:

The rods needs to be soldered to the supplied threads and links. It is also possible to insert threads into the rods and solder (see picture). This can also be glued but we recommend soldering with atleast 150watt.

We strongly recommend as strong and fast elevator servo as you can. This will help you get a fast and accurate zoom.

To be sure a good connection of the Dsub connector it is advisable to connect to the wing and attach with a small amount of glue. This way the distance will be perfect.


 

Wing:

The servo wells have preinstalled carbon were the servos are to be glued. This carbon and servo case should be rubbed so the servos does not come loose. If one have access to frames this is a very good solution and makes it easy to change servos if needed.
One can also join the top and bottom skin with balsa or similar. This will make the seating for the servo much stronger and will result in less slop.
The tips and midsection should have a layer of tape so the paint does not wear.


D-sub:

With all Pike models there comes a D-sub. This connector supplies the wing with signals and power for the wing servos. It can be connected in many ways but here are an example of how it can be used.
The plus and minus (+/-) are for all 4 servos so you need to connect 2 servos for each pin. Be careful and check several times before you connect power to the system. If you have done it wrong you can make damage both Rx and servos.


 

 


Joiner box fitting:

At the end of the joinerbox there is a lot of epoxy/micro balloons. Since the fitting of the joiner box is extremely tight it is possible to break of some pieces of the joiner box ends. To avoid this it is normal to cut of some of the micro balloons with a knife as the picture shows. One can also sand/rub a little bit the opening (the last few millimeters).

 


Elevator fitting:

Ever wondered if elevator will keep that tight fit on the joiner ? Well it might not. But if it gets a litle loose here is how you make it tight again. There are two solutions:
1.
Rub a candel light against the joiner. Or cross country ski wax.
2. A few milimeters from the end of the joiner you use your knife to make a small cut. This cut will raise the carbon fibers slightly and keep that tight fit.
On the Pike Perfect you use a small piece of tape on the front of the elevator.


 


Servocover:

Have you ever wondered how those servo covers are so neatly cut ? They could be cut at Samba but then your servo would have to be on the correct place. Maybe you want the servo to be glued as close as possible to the spar. Or conveniently in the middle of the cut-out hole.

- Start with gluing the servo in or even better glue in a servo frame so that the servo can be taken out for changing of gears etc. Be sure to adjust the servohorn position before you glue the servo in.
- Tape the outlines of the servo cut-out with a masking tape (or any cheap tape you have handy).
- Place the servocover were it fits the servo arm and mark the outlines on the servocover with a pen.
- Cut the servocover at the marked lines and make the corners round.
- The servo cover is then taped in place by a clear tape.


 


Servotravel flap:

The Brio wing is very thin and with huge flaps but will manage a Graupner DS368 (or JR) and the new digital MicroMaxx X (or Xp) if the servos are placed towards the spar. And still one will be able to get 90 degree travel. If one can get the servoe more backwards it is even easier to get good travel.
Alternative servos might be Futaba 3150, Graupner DS161, Hitec 5125MG or Volz WingMaxx digital.


 


Extreme use of servo:

Sometimes and with some radios we like to use the full potential of the servo. But if we use a clevis it will rub against the servo shaft. If one looks at the clevis it is mostly one side that have full support of the forces. The other side can be grinded down to let the servo shaft have room.
This way we use the full potential of the servo with very little slop yet still all the movement we need.

Now get out flying!!!