Tips and tricks of the trade!
Here is a few tips and tricks on how to assemble a Pike model. They will not help you win a contest but will make your model just slightly more flush and practical.
We recommend 2+2 NiMh, 2+3 NiMh or for the latest models the space is very limited so a 1+1 Liion (panasonic 18650B or similar) is very suitable. Remember to check what voltage the servos need. Only HV (HighVoltage) servos can do the 2cell Liion that fully charged can be 8,2-8,4V.
We strongly suggest a high amp switch as the
current with 6 digital servos might be above 8A in the zoom.
The servo wells have preinstalled carbon were
the servos are to be glued. This carbon and servo case should be rubbed so
the servos does not come loose. If one have access to frames this is a very
good solution and makes it easy to change servos if needed.
With all Pike models there comes a D-sub. This connector
supplies the wing with signals and power for the wing servos. It can be
connected in many ways but here are an example of how it can be used.
Joiner box fitting:
At the end of the joinerbox there is a lot of epoxy/micro balloons. Since the fitting of the joiner box is extremely tight it is possible to break of some pieces of the joiner box ends. To avoid this it is normal to cut of some of the micro balloons with a knife as the picture shows. One can also sand/rub a little bit the opening (the last few millimeters).
wondered if elevator will keep that tight fit on the joiner ? Well it might
not. But if it gets a litle loose here is how you make it tight again. There
are two solutions:
Have you ever wondered how those servo covers are so neatly cut ? They could be cut at Samba but then your servo would have to be on the correct place. Maybe you want the servo to be glued as close as possible to the spar. Or conveniently in the middle of the cut-out hole.
- Start with gluing the servo in or even better glue in a servo frame so
that the servo can be taken out for changing of gears etc. Be sure to adjust
the servohorn position before you glue the servo in.
The Brio wing is very thin and with huge
flaps but will manage a Graupner DS368 (or JR) and the new digital MicroMaxx
X (or Xp) if the servos are placed towards the spar. And still one will be
able to get 90 degree travel. If one can get the servoe more backwards it is
even easier to get good travel.
Extreme use of servo:
Sometimes and with some radios we like to use
the full potential of the servo. But if we use a clevis it will rub against
the servo shaft. If one looks at the clevis it is mostly one side that have
full support of the forces. The other side can be grinded down to let the
servo shaft have room.
Now get out flying!!!